THE COAST RANGES
At last, on the day appointed, we, with five horses, climbed the Cold Spring Trail to the ridge; and then, instead of turning to the left, we plunged down the zigzag lacets of the other side.
That night we camped at Mono Canon, feeling ourselves strangely an integral part of the relief map we had looked upon so many times that almost we had come to consider its features as in miniature, not capacious for the accommodation of life-sized men.
Here we remained a day while we rode the hills in search of Dinkey and Jenny, there pastured.
We found Jenny peaceful and inclined to be corralled.
But Dinkey, followed by a slavishly adoringbrindle mule, declined to be rounded up.We chased her up hill and down; along creek-beds and through the spiky chaparral.Always she dodged craftily, warily, with forethought.Always the brindled mule, wrapt in admiration at his companion's cleverness, crashed along after.Finally we teased her into a narrow canon.Wes and the Tenderfoot closed the upper end.I attempted to slip by to the lower, but was discovered.Dinkey tore a frantic mile down the side hill.Bullet, his nostrils wide, his ears back, raced parallel in the boulder-strewn stream-bed, wonderful in his avoidance of bad footing, precious in his selection of good, interested in the game, indignant at the wayward Dinkey, profoundly contemptuous of the besotted mule.At a bend in the canon interposed a steep bank.Up this we scrambled, dirt and stones flying.I had just time to bend low along the saddle when, with the ripping and tearing and scratching of thorns, we burst blindly through a thicket.In the open space on the farther side Bullet stopped, panting but triumphant.Dinkey, surrounded at last, turned back toward camp with an air of utmost indifference.
The mule dropped his long ears and followed.
At camp we corralled Dinkey, but left her friend to shift for himself.Then was lifted up his voice in mulish lamentations until, cursing, we had to ride out bareback and drive him far into the hills and there stone him into distant fear.Even as we departed up the trail the following day the voice of his sorrow, diminishing like the echo of grief, appealed uselessly to Dinkey's sympathy.For Dinkey, once captured, seemed to have shrugged her shoulders and accepted inevitable toil with a real though cynical philosophy.
The trail rose gradually by imperceptible gradations and occasional climbs.We journeyed in the great canons.High chaparral flanked the trail, occasional wide gray stretches of "old man" filled the air with its pungent odor and with the calls of its quail.
The crannies of the rocks, the stretches of wide loose shale, the crumbling bottom earth offered to the eye the dessicated beauties of creamy yucca, of yerba buena, of the gaudy red paint-brushes, the Spanish bayonet; and to the nostrils the hot dry perfumes of the semi-arid lands.The air was tepid; the sun hot.
A sing-song of bees and locusts and strange insects lulled the mind.The ponies plodded on cheerfully.
We expanded and basked and slung our legs over the pommels of our saddles and were glad we had come.
At no time did we seem to be climbing mountains.
Rather we wound in and out, round and about, through a labyrinth of valleys and canons and ravines, farther and farther into a mysterious shut-in country that seemed to have no end.Once in a while, to be sure, we zigzagged up a trifling ascent; but it was nothing.And then at a certain point the Tenderfoot happened to look back.
"Well!" he gasped; "will you look at that!"We turned.Through a long straight aisle which chance had placed just there, we saw far in the distance a sheer slate-colored wall; and beyond, still farther in the distance, overtopping the slate-colored wall by a narrow strip, another wall of light azure blue.
"It's our mountains," said Wes, "and that blue ridge is the channel islands.We've got up higher than our range."We looked about us, and tried to realize that we were actually more than halfway up the formidable ridge we had so often speculated on from the Cold Spring Trail.But it was impossible.In a few moments, however, our broad easy canon narrowed.
Huge crags and sheer masses of rock hemmed us in.The chaparral and yucca and yerba buena gave place to pine-trees and mountain oaks, with little close clumps of cottonwoods in the stream bottom.
The brook narrowed and leaped, and the white of alkali faded from its banks.We began to climb in good earnest, pausing often for breath.The view opened.We looked back on whence we had come, and saw again, from the reverse, the forty miles of ranges and valleys we had viewed from the Ridge Trail.
At this point we stopped to shoot a rattlesnake.
Dinkey and Jenny took the opportunity to push ahead.From time to time we would catch sight of them traveling earnestly on, following the trail accurately, stopping at stated intervals to rest, doing their work, conducting themselves as decorously as though drivers had stood over them with blacksnake whips.We tried a little to catch up.
"Never mind," said Wes, "they've been over this trail before.They'll stop when they get to where we're going to camp."We halted a moment on the ridge to look back over the lesser mountains and the distant ridge, beyond which the islands now showed plainly.Then we dropped down behind the divide into a cup valley containing a little meadow with running water on two sides of it and big pines above.The meadow was brown, to be sure, as all typical California is at this time of year.But the brown of California and the brown of the East are two different things.Here is no snow or rain to mat down the grass, to suck out of it the vital principles.It grows ripe and sweet and soft, rich with the life that has not drained away, covering the hills and valleys with the effect of beaver fur, so that it seems the great round-backed hills must have in a strange manner the yielding flesh-elasticity of living creatures.The brown of California is the brown of ripeness; not of decay.
